This variety has rich fragrance and deep purple hues. Lavandula angustifolia can withstand the mild winter chills common in the east portion of Tennessee.
Lavandula stoechas have unique, tufted flower heads and compatibility with warmer temperatures. It is suitable for west Tennessee's more humid and subtropical conditions.
Lavandula dentata stands tall with its spiky tufts and eye-catching wings. Resilient and able to handle heavy clay soils, this variety can be joyful evidence of your green thumb in the rocky terrains of central Tennessee.
Lavender is a sun-loving plant. It requires at least 8 hours of direct sunlight each day. When scouting for a spot, make sure shadows from trees and structures don't impact it.
Lavender prefers sandy or gravelly soil. You need to test your soil pH. Ensure it falls between 6 and 8. Amend the soil with organic matter. This will improve drainage and reduce compaction. For example, sand or compost. Make sure the water doesn't collect around the roots. This can lead to root rot, a common problem in lavender.
Before growing lavender in TN, prepare the site by removing any unwanted vegetation. Install drainage pipes or raised beds if necessary. Keep the soil from becoming waterlogged.
Use cover cropping and reduce tillage to improve soil structure. All of these can benefit lavender cultivation. Providing these soil conditioners long before you plant them. Your lavender will have the head start it needs.
In Tennessee, the best time is in early spring or late fall. Avoid planting during the peak of summer when the heat can stress the young plants. Spring planting gives the lavender ample time to set down roots before the heat. Fall planting allows the roots to establish without the pressure to produce new growth.
When growing lavender in Tennessee, ensure the lavender crown just sits at the soil level. Prepare raised beds if you're concerned about soil drainage. Add a layer of pea gravel at the bottom to aid in swift runoff.
For in-ground planting, ensure the final spacing is approximately 12 to 18 inches. You can also plant lavender on a small mound. This can reduce the risk of root rot.
Plant indoors in early spring when starting lavender from seeds. Then, transplant them after the frost. If you're working with established plants or cuttings, plant them directly into well-drained soil.
Gently massage the root ball. Loose the roots before planting. Ensure the root ball remains intact. Plant at the same depth as it was in the nursery. Gently pack the soil to remove air pockets.
Water newly planted lavender sufficiently. Keep the soil moist, but not waterlogged. They are drought-tolerant after being established. Infrequent, deep waterings are sufficient.
Water only when the soil is dry 1-2 inches deep. This is usually around every two to three weeks. Overwatering can cause root rot. Underwatering also weakens the plant. So find the balance to avoid either extreme.
Mulch: Lavender loves dry conditions. So a layer of organic mulch will help retain moisture in the soil.
Fertilizer: Lavender is not heavy-handed. Lightly apply a balanced fertilizer in early spring. This is enough to sustain its growth.
Weed Management: Regular weeding is necessary. Lavender does not compete well with other plants for nutrients and water.
Pest and Disease: Common pests include thrips and root rot. Lavender is prone to diseases in wet soil. Use organic pest control methods and ensure proper drainage.
Post-Bloom Pruning: Trim the plant by a third after blooming to shape and promote further growth.
Hard Pruning: Every few years, perform a hard prune in the spring, cutting back to new growth.
Winter Pruning: Protect plants from winter damage by not pruning after August. This allows plant foliage to shield the base.
Cut flowers just as the buds begin to open. This is typically in the early morning. The dew has dried but before the full heat of the day sets in. Harvest stems with a bit of foliage attached.
For preserving lavender, the preferred method is air drying. Hang bouquets upside down in a dark, dry space with good airflow. Alternatively, harvest flowers and lay them out on a screen to dry. Once dried, store the flowers in an airtight container away from light and heat.
The positioning of your lavender garden can work in tandem with nature. This helps your plants through the winter. A south-facing slope or the sheltered lee of a building can provide a milder microclimate. These can buffer against sudden temperature changes and drying winds.
Apply a thick layer of mulch around the base of the plant. Don't cover the crown. This can lead to rot. Mulch serves as an insulator. It can keep the soil temperature more stable and protect roots from freeze-thaw cycles.
Stressed plants may appear wilted. The foliage is discolored and often turns gray or brown. You should address stress by checking the soil moisture. Increasing protection if necessary.
The surest sign of root rot is discoloration and mushy texture of the lower stem and roots. Prevention lies in soil preparation. Amend the ground with sand, vermiculite, and peat to ensure it mimics those well-drained Mediterranean soils. If a lavender does contract the malady, immediate intervention with organic fungicides and aeration can save the plant and the peace of mind of the gardener.
Lavender is not very expressive. A lack of growth or yellowing leaves are its subtle signals that something is amiss. The pests or diseases are not culprits, these symptoms often point to nutrition deficiency or overwatering. Take action by adding a slow-release, low-nitrogen fertilizer in spring and analyzing your watering schedules.
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